不要被标题吓着了。
不过我第一次听说伊藤这个词,确实和砸它有关。
那是2005年的3月,我到成都商报实习,顺便也来了解接下来自己将要居住和工作的城市。某天晚上,和带我的编辑老师一起去温江泡温泉。大家光着身子在那聊天,突然老师们兴奋起来,他们得到一个消息——伊藤被砸了。
一位编辑老师当场说了一个新闻标题出来,“伊藤,伊疼我不疼。”
这个标题当然没有印在报纸上,但是它的确表达了这家商场和成都的复杂而深刻的关系。
1997年,伊藤春熙路店开业,这家日本百货公司正式进驻成都,据说这也是成都第一家外资商场。
过去25年,伊藤始终坚持它的服务理念,保持一个日本商场的标准,坦白说,它始终高于成都人的生活,也引领着成都。
不信可以去看一下它的卫生间。现在的IFS和太古里,卫生间装修得都很高级,设施当然没得说,但是却显得高冷——它只彰显自己的财力,而并不真的以人为中心,走进去我常常担心会摔跤或者撞墙。而伊藤的卫生间,考虑的更多是细节,包括小孩和老人的需求。
不久前成都静默的时候,伊藤也是保供企业之一。那些收到来自伊藤蔬菜包的市民,明显更自豪。物品更丰富不说,包装也更好,还有贴心的小纸条。
成都人对伊藤有着复杂的情感。附近有伊藤商场的居民,生活会相对幸福一些。毫无疑问,成都人是喜欢、追捧伊藤的,它也不断开出新店。“逛伊藤”不仅意味买东西,还代表着某种中产身份认同,因为它超市的货物比一般的要贵。
伊藤在中国多个城市有生意,但是成都伊藤的利润是最好的,据说比日本本部还要好。就像它公司注册的名字所显示的那样,“成都伊藤洋华堂有限公司”,它深度融入了成都这个城市。
但是,春熙路的伊藤,又是日资、外资乃至“外部生活”的象征,在2005、2010和2012年,它都曾被爱国人士包围。2005年,我听说是“真砸”了。一位朋友说,2010年的时候他在现场,爱国青年看到伊藤受到警方良好的保护,砸烂了对面一家韩国烧烤的招牌。
现在春熙路店要关门了,它隔壁的伊势丹百货也要关张。一位好友发圈说,她未来一段时间会经常去吃饭,希望大家能够在那里偶遇。她的看法,代表了相当多人的情感,至少有一部分,发自内心地热爱着日式百货带来的精致生活。
这家店的关门,引发一些过渡的猜测,人们把它和外资撤离中国联系起来。其实,伊藤并没有变,它和百货业整体上一样陷入经营困难,但是撤离春熙路就只是春熙路而已,至少在可见的未来,它不会撤离成都。

换句话说,不是伊藤变了,而是春熙路变了。这不是一个意识形态问题,而是一个城市更新问题。百年商圈春熙路,其实已经凋敝了,这是成都人必须认识的现实。
那里依然是“市中心”,不过真正的中心稍稍往东偏移了一点,现在太古里和IFS,勉强维持了某种繁华。而以伊藤为代表的传统春熙路商圈,风光不再。
你去看一下,那些爱摄影的油腻中年男,都埋伏在太古里,而在春熙路,连一个打望的人都没有。
一个时代结束了,人们总爱这么说,那么,结束的到底是一个怎样的时代呢?我认为过去25年,是成都人学会过“现代生活”的时代。
1997年的成都,其实是一个落后的西部城市,但是在盐市口、春熙路一代,必胜客、星巴克这些洋品牌大量进入,创造了一个“国际生活”场域,而伊藤和伊势丹所代表的日式生活,是其中最重要的部分。
这个“现代生活”,核心是对人的尊重。不要以为这是一句空话。前段时间有个新闻,一位单亲妈妈带着小孩在某市打拼送外卖,孩子在送进幼儿园之前,她时常把孩子放在麦当劳——相互信任带来的安全感,是都市的本质,而为我们带来这一切的,不是什么供销社,而是麦当劳、必胜客这些外资企业。
如果选一个商场作为这种价值的代表,在成都无疑就是伊藤洋华堂。就这个意义上说,过去25年伊藤教会了成都人很多,而那些去打砸抢的人,也从反向证明了伊藤的价值:它是一个“中心”,也是某种价值观的代表,伊藤撤离了,以后你们还去哪里呢?
(全文转自微信公众号“城市的地得”)
本文由看新闻网转载发布,仅代表原作者或原平台观点,不代表本网站立场。 看新闻网仅提供信息发布平台,文章或有适当删改。
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